Heavenly Hampshire published The Mail and EVOKE.IE
A Dog-Friendly Spin Through Hampshire
Hampshire doesn’t need sunshine to make you fall for its charm. Even in early November, with grey skies and drizzle, the countryside holds that deep English green that only comes from centuries of rain and careful tending. I embarked on a road trip through it with my two dogs, Babe and Gizmo, and we couldn’t have picked a more welcoming corner of Britain.
Our first stop was Chawton, the village most associated with Jane Austen. Thatched cottages, holly wreaths already on doors, and the kind of quiet that makes you slow down almost immediately. Austen’s cottage is now the Jane Austen House Museum and gift shop. Her home is small and surprisingly modest, but its worth the tour to see the original donkey cart her brother bought to make her mother’s life easier and walk through the rooms where Jane and her sister Cassandra lived while writing Emma, Persuasion and Mansfield Park. Her brother Edward inherited the estate across the way, so the Austen women lived in the cottage while he ran Chawton House. This has lovely, unassuming grounds, and the main house is open to the public. Obviously, no dogs are allowed inside Chawton House, but we had a lovely scamper around the grounds.
Chawton is a tiny village where the thatch cottages feel lived in rather than preserved, with Christmas decorations in windows and pristine gardens. The Greyfriar is the local. An old stone pub with an incredible welcome, for the dogs at least. The bar staff came out from behind the counter and made a huge fuss of Babe and Gizmo. These small gestures, as any dog owner knows, make a big difference. Good ales, working fire, locals who are happy to talk to you, The Greyfriar is everything a proper pub should be.
From Chawton we drove south to Emsworth and checked into The Ropemaker. It’s technically a four-star hotel but feels more like a well-run country inn. Part of the Heartwood Collection, I learnt it’s only been open a year but runs with real confidence. Several staff I chatted to had been there since opening and clearly loved working there. Easy to see why: there’s a steady stream of locals and well-heeled guests arriving daily, either for the sailing at one of Emsworth’s two sailing clubs or simply a slice of the quiet life. You can walk to the coast in under 15 minutes, and Elmsworth village is about a 10 min. walk.
The rooms are excellent. Proper five-star bedding, wide-screen TVs, good coffee machines, and, despite being roadside, surprisingly quiet. Very little noise gets through. Dog-wise, it’s very accommodating. The only catch is no private outdoor space attached to my room, so late-night bathroom trips mean taking the stairs. The hotel garden makes up for it, though, with big old trees, a decent lawn and plenty of space for dogs to stretch their legs.
Breakfast deserves a mention. I enjoyed the best scrambled eggs that I can remember. Creamy without being heavy, properly seasoned, and cooked slowly. I’d planned to eat elsewhere the second night, but after dinner on night one (excellent trout followed by a pistachio soufflé that was impossibly light) I cancelled my plans and booked the Ropemakers again and tucked into delicious French onion soup and a twice-baked soufflé. This chef knows what he is good at! Savoury or sweet, the soufflés rule this kitchen. The bar runs a happy hour from 5-7pm and gets a good mix of hotel guests and locals. I really noticed the difference to busy cities: people actually talk to each other instead of sitting on phones, which is rare these days.
Emsworth sits perfectly for coastal trips, though November makes the sea less of a romantic walk and more of a weather experience. We drove out to Hauling Island and stopped at The Inn on the Beach, a big café-restaurant right by the water. Too cold for a proper walk, even for the dogs, but perfect for watching the weather roll in with a coffee.
Portsmouth is an easy drive from Emsworth and worth it if you like naval history. We drove along The Hard, past HMS Warrior, and continued to Portchester Castle. It’s a massive Roman fort that became a mediaeval stronghold, still intact, with free parking and wide grassy grounds where dogs can run free. You can walk the full perimeter overlooking the water. One of those sites that hits you with how much history is packed into one place.
If you want another stop between Chawton and the coast, Hinton Ampner works well. It’s a National Trust property with a stately home, beautiful gardens, valley views, and dogs allowed on leads throughout the grounds. The house itself is Georgian, though dogs stay outdoors. On a clear day, even in winter, the views are fantastic.
Emsworth itself is tiny and old-fashioned in the best way. Saturday farmers’ market, a pretty high street with cafés and independent shops, and a small harbour with swans and fishing boats. Dozens of locals bring out little motorised model boats at weekends, and it's fun to see them bobbing around on the water.
Getting to Hampshire is straightforward. Aer Lingus runs direct flights from Dublin to Southampton, though schedules vary by season. Otherwise it’s Heathrow or Gatwick and an easy two-hour drive, with Chawton on the way down to the coast. Car hire is essential for this trip. Hampshire’s villages and coastal spots aren’t well connected by public transport, and having your own car means you can stop whenever something catches your eye. The major rental companies operate from all three airports. Book ahead for better rates. Most allow pets with advance notice, though confirm when you book. Hampshire roads are good. There are some narrow country lanes in places but well maintained and clearly signposted.
It’s the concentration of history that makes Hampshire work. Even when the weather’s terrible, as ours was one day, Hampshire is still the sort of place you can drive through for hours, stopping when something looks interesting, letting the dogs out into a new landscape every few miles. It’s old England at its best: historic, friendly, practical, and, for dog lovers, one of the easiest and most welcoming short breaks you can take.
Sara Colohan
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