Barcelona Travel Guide Jan 2026

Barcelona: A City That Still Surprises

I hadn't spent time in Barcelona since 2013, so when I returned recently for a two-night stay, I really felt like a brand new tourist for the most part. The city that once felt so familiar had evolved, revealing new districts and experiences alongside its timeless charm. I'd never been to Barcelona in winter either, so seeing how festive the city looks (they really go 'all out' on lights and trims) added another layer of wonderment to the whole experience, and with a lot less tourists around, queues were far shorter queues and manageable.

There's a huge choice of hotels in Barcelona, but I'd remembered staying in The Almanac in Prague, not least for their exceptionally comfortable bedding, and decided as I was only there two nights I'd splash out and stay at Almanac Barcelona. The hotel’s attention to detail made me feel so taken care of straight away. There are so many nice touches about the hotel, like the way the staff seem to remember every guest's name, a little personalised welcome card with cupcakes and clever eco aware effects throughout. The panoramic views from the welcoming all-year-round rooftop bar, Azimuth, offer a stunning perspective over the city, while the stylish, arty décor flows throughout the hotel's eight floors. Of course, they have a Michelin-starred chef restaurant there too, VIRENS, led by Rodrigo de la Calle, who specialises in innovative plant-forward cuisine. You'll never be stuck for delicious food options. Even though there were several bakeries across the road, I still chose to have breakfast in my hotel, not least because I knew I wasn't going to beat the décor in the restaurant. You can't take the Irish out of the girl: Virens is made up of many shades of green, with lush textured fabrics and gold trims. Add in that it's Christmas time in Barcelona, so as I sat in the shadow of one of the hotel's glorious Christmas trees, the gentle smell of fresh pine wafted in the air as I enjoyed my scrambled eggs.

What particularly sets the Almanac apart is their dedicated Art Floor on the seventh level, where each suite has been reimagined by a different local Barcelona artist. Guests can stay in these artistically transformed suites, view and even purchase the artworks, and some experiences include private tours of the artists' ateliers. This initiative demonstrates the hotel's commitment to supporting Barcelona's vibrant creative community by transforming their interiors into a living art exhibition.

The location of the hotel couldn’t really be better for walking Barcelona. I always believe it’s the best way to get familiar with a city, and the hotel’s position meant I could head off in any direction and see something fabulous. The soaring spires of La Sagrada Família are less than a fifteen-minute walk away (though my patience for queuing was limited, so I only admired the exterior). In another direction, the narrow, atmospheric lanes of El Born beckoned at a similar distance, while Plaça de Catalunya and La Rambla were under ten minutes on foot. Modernist masterpieces like Casa Batlló were a five-minute stroll, and La Pedrera (Casa Milà) barely ten. All very manageable on foot, not least because the weather was set at 16-20 degrees making it ideal walking weather.

El Born felt so familiar as soon as I started to walk the dimly lit narrow streets. Some standout shops included Blended, a concept store with cool clothing and jewellery designs. It's always nice meet an owner and English woman Katie owns Blended which is open almost ten years old. Blended sits in the shadow of the Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar. It's €5 entry, but if you can't be bothered queuing for Sagrada Família, it's a modest offering worth considering.

I could spend all day telling you where and how to get to specific shops, but El Born defies that kind of linear navigation. No matter where you wander, you eventually get that feeling you’ve been down that stretch before and you might even loop right back to your starting point, as I did more than once. But that’s part of El Born’s charm: the joy of aimless wandering, stumbling upon hidden courtyards, artisan workshops and quirky boutiques tucked down alleyways you’d never find on a map.

There are so many restaurants to choose from that it can feel like a struggle to pick just one. I fell into a bit of a tourist trap on my first night, opting for Feroz. It’s a glitzy, heavily styled spot with a vibe that felt a bit cool for school. The ceviche was decent, but I’d had far better just the week before at the excellent Peruvian restaurant Cantina Valentina in The Hoxton Dublin. That said, I’m a sucker for chandeliers, and there seemed to be at least thirty of them hanging in the dining area, which did thrill me. The dress-elegant code on every communication felt unnecessary, but if, like me, you enjoy theatrical spaces, you will be charmed by the place. Deep pockets are required, and it stays open until 2am, which at this stage, is well past my bedtime.

The next night was a different story. Restaurant Cadaqués is a stylish spot on Carrer de la Reina Cristina in El Born, with a love of all things fishy. We had red prawn carpaccio and a local speciality stone-fired rice dish with fish. The wine list was really decent, and the price was great value. I did a bit of research and saw the owners have a string of different restaurants in Barcelona, and my friend who lives locally told me they are all great. If you’re ever in doubt about where to eat, check out the Sagardi Group which is a local company founded in 1994 focused on authentic Spanish and Basque cuisine.

Their Barcelona restaurants include Sagardi BCN Gòtic in El Born, known for Basque txuletones and pintxos, 1881 per Sagardi at the Museum of the History of Catalonia with views over the port, and several others scattered throughout the city.

Minutes from Cadaqués Restaurant is Bar Paradiso. In 2022, it was voted the best bar in the world. By 2025, it had slipped to number four. Still not too shabby! I stood outside for a minute, wondering if I'd just put the name of the bar in and got some other spot unrelated because I didn't check the correct address. But no, Paradiso appears at first to be a tiny little smokehouse bar, but you just open the large fridge door to the left and descend into the womb-like cavern that is Paradiso. There's a list of cocktails that they offer, but you can get them to make up other classics. At €19 a pop, they are pricey for any city, but it's a bit of a novelty experience, especially if you like drinking out of unusual glassware and a bit of showmanship with every pour. They couldn't do one of the cocktails for me as it was for two people, giving me the impression that the cocktails are pre-made. I suppose this is a regular occurrence these days in bars, particularly those operating at this level where consistency and speed are essential but at €19 plus service, I like my cocktails freshly made.

Nowhere felt more unfamiliar than Glòries, a new tech district north of the city. One landmark that did feel familiar is The Hoxton Barcelona, which is full of the Hoxton's usual charm and quirky design. I stopped for lunch in their Four Corners restaurant and couldn't get over the set three-course menu was just €16. The Hoxton Dublin may not match in price but as far as quality, the food in Hoxton Dublin restaurant is second to none. If you remember Dublin’s Central Hotel, in particular winter nights in The Library Bar then you will be just as delighted as me to see it reinstated and looking just as inviting as back in the day. 

Glòries seems a distance out from Barcelona’s city centre, but when you realise there's the stunning Design Museum Disseny Hub, which houses 70,000 objects from five centuries, a Westfield shopping district with nearly 200 stores spread over 30,000 square metres, Torre Glòries (formerly Torre Agbar), Jean Nouvel's iconic skyscraper that marks the entrance to Barcelona's 22@ technology district, the Encants Vells flea market with its distinctive mirrored steel canopy, and the Teatre Nacional de Catalunya, it's only ten minutes by metro into Plaça de Catalunya.

I was a bit disappointed by Barcelona’s main high streets. There seemed to be the usual suspects like H&M and Uniqlo, and other than El Born, I didn’t see many cool independent stores or local brands on the big boulevards. What I did find, though, was one of the best second-hand designer handbag shops I’ve ever stepped into: Eye Luxury Concierge. It seems relatively small at first glance, but inside it opens into a Disneyland for designer bag lovers: rows of rare Chanel, vintage Louis Vuitton, and more. They also deal in jewellery and offer buy/sell/exchange services. I was too afraid to go into the jewellery section after already splurging on two investment bags, but if you’re into second-hand designer treasures, this place is a must-visit.

If you’re not there for shopping and would prefer a hands-on experience, consider one of Barcelona’s food or wine-centric activities. The Barcelona Wine Company offers wine tastings for any size group . You can go to their location in Gràcia, or if you want that wine experience brought to you, they’ll travel to your location with an extensive wine or cava tasting, pairing cheeses and local treats.

For a more immersive culinary adventure, BCN Kitchen in the heart of El Born offers cooking classes that include market visits and paella workshops. It’s a brilliant way to understand Catalan food traditions from the ground up.

Traffic is a bit chaotic in Barcelona. Adding into the mix the electric delivery driver bikes, and you really need to keep your wits about you. Their bicycle lanes are deceptively like pedestrian walkways so always watch both ways and don't risk your life if the lights aren't in your favour. Locals weave through traffic with practiced ease, but as a visitor, it's worth being extra vigilant, especially at intersections where bikes, scooters, and pedestrians all converge.

Barcelona remains a city of contrasts: ancient Gothic lanes giving way to modernist masterpieces, tourist traps sitting alongside genuine local gems, and new districts emerging while old neighbourhoods retain their soul. Two nights wasn't nearly enough, but it was just long enough to fall in love with the city all over again, and to leave with a very expensive handbag habit.

Sara Colohan