Suffolk Travel Guide. Published The Mail
From wild coastline to crooked timber towns, this low-key county offers laid-back luxury, lashings of history, and a warm welcome for well-travelled dogs.
There’s a quiet confidence to Suffolk as it gently coaxes you to slow down, breathe in the salt air, and look around. For a few days this summer, that’s exactly what I did. I hired a car, packing the boot with dog food and dog bowls, and set off with my two elderly dogs to explore the county’s coast and countryside.
Suffolk is ideal for this kind of travel: unhurried, unpretentious, and deeply dog-friendly. We stopped in historic towns, wandered across windblown beaches, and checked into a string of hotels and country house boltholes that extended their warm welcome to four-legged guests.
Orford & The Crown and Castle
Orford is a tiny village set against the vast and shifting landscapes of the Suffolk coast. Dominated by Henry II’s 12th-century keep, Orford is the sort of place where nothing much happens, but that’s kind of its charm.
We checked in at The Crown and Castle, a handsome Georgian restaurant with rooms just a short stroll from the castle grounds. Recently refurbished, its 21 bedrooms are spread across the main building and outbuildings, with seven newly decorated rooms named after local landmarks. Because I had two dogs, I was out the back, in the ground floor extension chalets, bright and spacious, with direct access to the garden which was perfect for the dogs to stretch their legs.
Dogs are welcomed in selected rooms and public areas, including the bar and large terrace which overlooks the castle. The bar was a wonderful spot for an early evening drink. Inside, original oak beams, curated artwork, and cosy furnishings create a space that feels both rooted in place and stylishly up to date.
Dinner was a highlight. With two AA Rosettes and a commitment to local sourcing, the kitchen puts out creative modern British dishes with substance. Orford-landed seafood, estate-reared meats, and seasonal vegetables appear on a menu that’s refined but never fussy. Sunday lunch here is almost sacred, and with good reason. It’s well cooked and generously portioned.
From Orford, we drove north to Aldeburgh, with its pastel-coloured houses, shingle beach, and famous fish huts selling freshly smoked fish. This genteel seaside town has long attracted artists, musicians, and old-school holidaymakers. Like the Kent coast which has the DFL’s (down from London), Aldeburgh has more than its share of UFL.
The Brudenell Hotel is right on the seafront and it’s 44-rooms combine smart interiors with a breezy coastal atmosphere. The sea-facing rooms have recently been refurbished in soothing tones of soft blue, grey, and sand. Ours featured a bay window with a cushioned seat where I watched the sunrise with a cafetière in hand . The sea are had the dogs snoring in no time.
Canine guests are very well accommodated here, with a selection of dog-friendly rooms, and permission to join owners in the lounge and on the terrace. Bowls and treats are provided, and the beach is seconds away, making it ideal for easy access, slow ambles for more senior hounds.
Leaving Aldeburgh behind, we made a heritage detour on the way inland.
Framlingham Castle, once home to Mary Tudor, is a spectacular site with towering curtain walls and a full wall walk that gives panoramic views over the surrounding countryside. It’s one of those rare historic sites where dogs are welcome without fuss.
We continued inland to Lavenham, where rows of medieval timber-framed houses lean at odd angles. It’s one of the best-preserved medieval towns in England, and once you step onto its crooked streets, you understand why filmmakers love it. One particular cottage appeared in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows as the boy wizard’s birthplace.
Lavenham is ideal for a gentle wander. With two dogs in tow, I strolled into open churchyards and explored antique shops, local delis, and art galleries. Everything here looks like it belongs on a postcard, but the charm is real and deep-rooted, not gimmicky.
Hintlesham Hall
Our final night was spent at Hintlesham Hall, a grand Jacobean manor house set in peaceful parkland just outside Ipswich and we certainly kept the best til last. The approach alone is worth the trip with it's long, tree-lined drive that opens onto honeyed stone walls and manicured lawns.
Hintlesham Hall outshone the other properties in terms of service and food. From the moment we arrived it felt like we were in very good hands. The ground floor dog-friendly room was a spacious and elegant suite with a very secure private garden and patio and a separate gate giving direct access to the grounds. This was so useful not to have to bring the two dogs through the hotel every time we wanted to mooch around the beautiful grounds. I have to note, the staff were discreet, friendly and warm where nothing was too much trouble. We had a pre dinner ramble with the dogs, and as the weather was so lovely, the restaurant staff offered us a table outside, which allowed me bring the dogs along too.
Dinner here was a revelation. The restaurant could easily hold its own in London, but here in Suffolk, it feels all the more special. Seasonal fish, well balanced sauces, crisp vegetables, and elaborate desserts made their way to us dining on the lawn, but normally dinner is served in the dining room, which oozes calm sophistication. The wine list is extensive and the atmosphere felt formal but natural and unforced. Its fine dining, but without the pretension.
Breakfast the next morning offered all the usuals including bacon, free-range eggs, and excellent coffee served in the same dining room. Hintlesham is a destination in itself and only about 90 minutes from London, it's worth considering for a weekend away.
Driving across Suffolk with two elderly dogs turned out to be very relaxing. The county offers that rare blend of natural beauty, historic interest, and top-tier hospitality, topped off with dog friendly people every where you turn.
Whether you’re visiting for castle ruins, fresh seafood and sea air, or simply to slow down and see what happens when you do, Suffolk offers a great, understated escape.
- The Crown and Castle, Orford: Doubles from £150. Dog-friendly rooms available. Two AA Rosettes.
- The Brudenell Hotel, Aldeburgh : From £170. Sea view rooms and dogs welcome in selected areas.
- Hintlesham Hall: Doubles from £180. Refined dining, standout service, and beautifully appointed dog-friendly rooms.
- Framlingham Castle Dogs welcome on leads. Check seasonal access and exhibitions.
- Lavenham : Free to explore. Plenty of dog-friendly cafés and historic spots.
Sara Colohan
Research, Writing.
Insta @less_ordinarytraveller
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