Travel to Sicily! Published The Mail 15/01/23

Palermo - Sicily

Sicily’s capital, Palermo, has a population of 1.2 million and is just 5000 square Km in size. To put that in perspective, England is five times the size of the island. It truly is mind-blowing how diverse the terrain and climate are throughout this small island. Ten miles in any direction can lead you into an entirely different terroir. The mountains can be lush and green and the lowlands arid and desert and of course it is home to Mount Etna, one of the world's most active volcanoes, which is in an almost constant state of activity. This terroir diversity, including the fertile volcanic soil of Edna lends itself well to winemaking, allowing this tiny island be one of the largest and most respected producers of wine in the world. Sicilian wines differ even to other Italian wines so if you’re a wine buff, the island will already be high on your list to visit, but even if you don’t know your Frappato from your Nero D’avola and simply binge-watched The White Lotus, Sicily has enough charm to keep you coming back again and again. 

The capital, Palermo, has both frequent and cheap flights and is just 2.5 hours from the UK. A 30-minute drive from Palermo airport and you are in the heart of things. I chose Casa Nostra Hotel (www.casanostrapalermo.com) for price and proximity. It’s a slick boutique hotel with a pool and a decent restaurant. There's a good breakfast, and rooms have an eco feel with no plastics, stylish well-made wooden furniture, and refillable bathroom products. Most importantly (because taxis are not cheap), you are walking distance to everything you may want to see in Palermo. 

 The Teatro Massimo, less than 5 minutes' walk away, is a gorgeous feast for the eyes. Incredibly, this is the largest theatre in Italy, and its plush red velvet boxes, oak panelling, and proud history make it worthy of a tour, or better still, go and enjoy a night at the opera. Check the schedule www.teatromassimo.it 

Another edifying pit stop is Palazzo dei Normanni, also known as Palermo Royal Palace. Don’t hesitate to pay €15.50 extra to visit the 11th-century chapel in the grounds—it’s breathtaking. Arched, heaven-high ceilings clad in gold leaf and silver, part original and part reconstructed, the Cappella Palatina is by far the best example of the so-called Arab-Norman-Byzantine style that prevailed in the 12th-century Sicily. 

When in Sicily, learning about wines is like learning the local language. Everyone understands the importance of wine making to the island, and there are many great winery tours available. With rave reviews on Tripadvisor I tried Duca di Salaparuta winery in Casteldaccia. It’s easy to get there by train from Palermo with a 10 min walk from the station. A member of Wines of Sicily DOC its impressive range of wines are available to taste and purchase in the gift shop. You can visit the inner sanctum and see the vats and barrels of wine fermenting in the cellars and get a knowledgeable tour. We chose the Duca Excellence tour, which included a full tour of the cellars plus a tasting of 4 Duca di Salaparuta iconic wines with nibbles. It’s 1 hour 30 minutes and € 35 per person. Thankfully it had a well-stocked shop because they make incredibly good Marcela wine. Interestingly the barrels used in the winery are sent to Ireland and ‘recycled’ to make ‘triple cask triple smooth.’ The Busker whiskey. So, you can buy good-quality Irish whiskey here to bring home! (www.thebusker.com)

With the culture stuff done, consider a trip to the shops. High street Italian chain OVS is certainly worth a look. Think high-quality H&M with low euro prices. The stock differs wildly from shop to shop, so the best might be the one on the main strip Via Ruggiero Settimo, where you will also find Zara and the other usual high street suspects. If you want to find some designer luxury items at cut-down prices, then consider Tres Chic Vintage (Via Trapani) or nearby Luxury Hunters (Via Enrico Albanese) They have an impressive and reasonably priced range of second-hand designer handbags and clothing. Maybe you have the cash to splash and want to visit the real deal—there’s Hermes, Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton, and more on Via della Liberta which is the main luxury shopping street.

If you love a rummage in a local flea market, then visit Giardino Garibaldi on a Sunday. It opens early, but traders really only set up after 10am. Expect both antiques and household clearance at very cheap prices.

If shopping and tourist spots are not your thing and you want to spend your time lolling on the beach, then just beyond the port as you continue north of Palermo is the Art Nouveau Villa Igiea Hotel (www.roccoforthotels.com). This luxury destination will suit if you truly want to step back in time quite literally, as part of the vast venerable hotel is over 200 years old. There’s a sense the history in every room, especially in the hand-painted ballroom and the sandstone vault of the Igiea Terrazza bar. There’s a gym and a spa with treatments including volcanic stone massage. Breakfast is a lavish affair and there’s a Michelin-starred chef (Fulvio Pierangelini) overseeing the restaurants.

 Food quality in Palermo will vary like in many cities, but one thing that’s consistent is the number of deep fried items you will see. It was explained to me that Sicilians eat a lot of vegetables at home and like to eat deep-fried food when they go out. I ended up trying everything from deep-fried burrata (not necessary or advised!) to the traditional chickpea flatbreads Panella (delicious), but the real magic is when you try the local specialty swordfish. It’s plentiful and fresh and of course you can have it deep-fried, but maybe try it freshly baked or ceviche-style. Osteria Ballaro restaurant (www.osteriaballaro.it) is set in a cavernous old stable with natural stone walls. It hosts a dining room and a wine bar, which offered tasty street food and salads with more traditional Palermitan cuisine in the big dining room. The food is seasonal and fresh and you can bank on delicious wines and food options like swordfish ceviches, perfectly cooked seafood, and beef tartare. Trattoria Corona (Via Guglielmo Marconi) might also be worth a visit for more traditional family-cooked food, but be warned—the lights are so bright you might need shades!